travel

The Paul & Paula crew loves to travel.

Near & far. And we love to share our trips – our favourite stops, eats and things to do with the kids. Nothing teaches you more than traveling the world.

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A hot Summer in Italy {with kids}

Lemons anyone_

Nothing prepares you for the beauty of a country, or the feeling of youth you feel, when compared to the history of its art, sculptures, or structures. Italy is a great place to feel, young, very hot (weather wise!), and in the best of places, enjoying the summer.

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Ponte Vecchio - Florence

We spent a few weeks this summer touring Italy. What started out as a focus on two or three places, became a love for a land so beautiful and drenched in history, art, and culture, that we wandered about listlessly, place to place, with a bottle of cold water in hand, and a periodic splash of it on our faces.
Very full! Trattoria de Mario Florence

This was our second visit to the country famous for its pasta and pizza, two foods that touch only the tip of its culinary iceberg. There is a lot to write about on Italy…too much to cover in one post. So, I’ll leave that for another lazy afternoon.

For now, I’m sharing 10 thoughts from our trip, and some pictures, that speak more than my words can ever describe.

Places we visited: Pisa, Florence, Siena, Sorrento, Pompeii, Positano, Revello, Amalfi.

 

Positano1
Positano
Number 10: Each place you visit deserves a hug, some tender words, and lots of …time.

Travel to Italy can easily be an exercise in checking things off your bucket list. BUT, we found it to be a place to marvel, through wandering the streets, through sitting and enjoying an espresso, and through praising the skills of people of the past.

So, I say, pick a few places, or even just one! Try not to get travel-greedy. For the first time, there is always a thirst to see more, and you will see a lot. And with that, you can then choose to come back to spend a longer time with the one which captured your heart.

Positano Love - Us Three
Italy For Paul and Paula - 26

Number 9: An apartment or a suite style accommodation is perfect with kids.

We mostly stayed in one or the other, always with access to a kitchen, fridge, and basic amenities. We as a family love to travel, and believe that travel is one of the best learning experiences for children, but it also means that routines go for a toss.

Little M was 18 months when we did this trip, and she’s quite an easy traveler, having traveled thousands of miles already across continents. Still, I like to have some sense of normalcy for her, which means, if I could make her breakfast, and not have to hope that room service got it right, or fry her an egg, or dish up an easy meal, it made me feel a bit more in control, and kept her happy.

Some sources are Airbnb and a lovely site called kidandcoe which has beautiful child-friendly homes. You must be careful, do your research, and only then select the best for you and your family’s safety.

 

Amalfi2
Amalfi

Number 8: The Coast is breathtaking.

Yes, the Amalfi coast is beautiful…there are very few words that can do it justice. Nature at one of its absolute bests. It is magnificent. I’ll leave it at that.

You can enjoy being chauffeured around while you take in the views, which is much more comfortable with children. Iron Man Travel were recommended to us by close friends, and we recommend them too – they were great, reasonable for private touring along the coast, and were prompt and polite and professional in service. We even used them for our airport drops, so convenient and worry free!

Revello
Fish Soup in Florence

Number 7: When the food is served. Eat it heartily.

Beyond the pasta, pizza and bruschetta, there’s a lot to explore. I especially loved the Fish Soup we had in Pisa, the pickled salmon and sardines in Sorrento, the beef burger at Mercato Centrale, and the meat meat meat fest at Trattoria da Mario in Florence. Pannacotta, tiramisu’s and other desserts abound, but a special mention for the Café Shakerato, recommended by a friend who spent a year studying in Florence. You must have it on a hot summer day. Ooooo…it’s divine.

Just fyi – towards the end of the trip, on our second last day, I felt like a Chinese take out in Sorrento, but we found none. I mean none. How can that be? There’s one everywhere, no? Apparently, not in Sorrento.

Number 6: Carry familiar foods/toys that your child likes. And the coffee that you do.

I always carry Little M’s comfort foods – few things that she’s used to back home, and that I know I may not find as easily in a foreign land – her porridge, a little packet of turmeric, and a little packet of lentils because I’ve found that with these basic things from home, I can just add other ingredients – veggies, rice, chicken, cheese etc. that I can pick up on the go, and voila – she feels just like she’s home! We also carried Little M’s little ‘Ducky’ stuffed toy, and a few of her favorite books. She did come back with a larger family – a Penguin, a Monkey and more.

In Florence, we ran out of her porridge, and surprisingly it was a challenge to find it. We found one packet with the huge pieces, that took over a half hour to soften (not kidding!) and Little M didn’t like it. Finally, in the South of Italy, a lovely lady led us to a powdered form, which worked a bit better. There’s always plenty of on-the-go healthy food available, the fresh mozzarella went down a treat with Little M. She used to gobble it up!

Oh, and yes, I love my own freshly brewed coffee to wake up to, so I do carry it along with me. ☺

Dot'ing in Positano

Number 5: Italian men are suave, natural and charming.

Italian men have an open and confident suaveness about themselves which preludes their spoken word. It’s a spiffiness that is hard to miss, no? It’s the tone and accent that I find especially endearing though. The lull of the words and accent, Pri-aaaar-no, or Posi-taaaaa-no, combined with their flash shorts, well-cut shirts and super trendy shoes. They’re well put together!

 

Pompeii
Pompeii 3
Pompeii 2

Number 4: Pompeii is spectacular, a must do, but not necessarily with a baby/toddler.

We learned about Pompeii growing up. It is my husband’s and my kind of place. So, we had to visit. We did have Little M with us, but it didn’t stop us. I’m not saying it’s not doable, it is, but it is challenging with a baby/toddler. So, consider that you will have to carry your baby/toddler for most of the wandering, as a buggy doesn’t work on the large cobbled stones. We still spent over 5 hours at the site, and Little M loved it too. She got to run around a lot in the open flat areas, and given the heat, she had water splashed on her every so often. She loved it.
My advice: If your child needs the buggy, then save Pompeii for when they don’t.

 

Our little Guide - Waiting to see David

Number 3: Skip a few places, so you always something to return to on your next trip.

A day is finite, and so is our physical and emotional ability to appreciate. I really wanted to do the Isle of Capri. Apart from the fact that is a beautiful place and recommended by many friends, my silly reason is because I grew up singing the song ‘Twas on the Isle of Capri that I found her….beneath the shade of an old walnut tree.” A silly reason, but a dear reason. Realistically, we couldn’t fit it in, and so I made peace with it. Still, as fate would have it, on our drive along the Amalfi Coast, we spotted it from afar, which was perfect.

 

Siena Cathedral
Duumo Florence

Number 2: Sculptures. Art. Sculptures. Art. History. Sculptures.

There’s a lot to see and a lot to appreciate. I much prefer to read about the place before I visit, so that I can pick what I am most attracted to. I don’t need to see it all. And with children, it’s harder and unfair to drag them to museum after museum for our pleasure. We tried as much as possible to alternate between open space outings, and museum visits/adult activities so that Little M didn’t get bored, and we were all happy.

For adults, The Uffizi gallery is not to be missed. One of my favorites of the visit there was ‘The Primavera’, by Sandro Botticelli. ‘The Birth of Venus’ is lovely too, and holds a special meaning, as I really like the book with the same name.

 

David

Of course, do not leave Florence without a visit to Michelangelo’s ‘David’ – Perfection.

 

She loves water - in Siena
Pisa
Number 1: Italy is to be experienced. So, just go with the flow.

Almost anything goes in Italy. What I mean by this is – the people are laid back, the surroundings are gorgeous. There are rules, but it is a happy, non-rigid way of life.

Italy is a welcoming land with so much to offer, and not much to restrict you enjoying it your way. You can fit in just as well as anyone else. Every church, square, ponte,….is rich in its story of origin, as well as the contemporary people around it.

It is best to do it all slowly. And with children in tow, it allows us to rest our feet, sip a glass of wine, or espresso, and watch….just watch as our little ones explore the new land, do new things, and create their own new memories. That’s one of the wonderful things about travel, no?

 

Today I’m humming: ‘Angelina’ by Louis Prima

 

Thank you Saroj – we all want to go to Italy now!

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Road trip part eight – Santa Cruz

santa cruz

This is the first post from home and the last one about the trip. Kinda. This is the last part. In my head I plan to write a little ’round up’ – like a top ten list and things that stood out A LOT and so on…. working on it. But the reality is: We are back. It is 5 am here in Sweden, the jet lag is playing with me, I am sitting in my own kitchen and it makes me happy to see the pictures. It makes me happy that we did this amazing trip. I actually already ordered a few prints from my Instagram pictures so we can have them up in the house and look at them…

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But lets get back to Santa Cruz for a moment. One of our last stops. And actually part of the Monterey Bay area so it was a really short drive from our last stop ( the ranch) over to Soquel just outside Santa Cruz and 2 min. from Capitola.

We left Corralitos in the morning, stopped for lunch and groceries and arrived in the early afternoon at our new home. A little up with a beautiful view over the ocean and (!!!) with a pool. I think the kids hardly slept the night before – a pool makes room for a lot of excitement (and makes you wonder why you told them… haha).

Unloading the car, clothes off, swimsuits on… pool time!

Santa Cruz boardwalk Santa Cruz boardwalk Santa Cruz boardwalk

The next day it was boardwalk time. (I think we managed quite a lovely ending – with the pool and amusement park). We stay here for 4 days so our options were Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Mon&Tue are the 1 dollar days, every ride is a dollar and we were warned to avoid these days BY ALL MEANS. So we were left witht he week end.

First we strolled around the city a little, had lunch & ice cream and then it was boardwalk time. Sunny day (hot!!!), lots of people yet so fun… right next to the beach with rides for all ages!

On our war back to the car we had tacos at Las Palmas. An institution and very good!

 

Seacliff State Beach Seacliff State Beach Seacliff State Beach

Day 2 – Seacliff State Beach. The beach is most known for the concrete ship SS Palo Alto lying in the water. Home to many sea lions … one had a little swim very close to where we were sitting and the kids were so surprised and amused when his head made an appearance.

(There is a little kiosk at the beach and they have Marianne’s ice cream – no need to queue at their original shop before or after the beach just get it right here – it is really good!)

Capitola Capitola Capitola Capitola Capitola

On Monday we finally went to Capitola. We were warned to go during the week end. It is too packed (the beach is really not that big) and parking is a nightmare. Monday it was. And wow… what a beautiful spot. You feel a little like in Italy with the colourful houses and the terraces by the water… Very cute!

 

In the evening we had to pack. Intelligent packing. One little suitcase with stuff for our 2 last days in San Francisco. On Tuesday we took the car and drove back to our origin destination and it was so strange. Back to where it all started. We dropped off the car. Checked in at the hotel. Hotel again… also felt a bit strange after all the houses we had, and off to the Yerba Buena Gardens (did you know that Yerba Buena was the original name of the Spanish settlement that would later become San Francisco, California?) and a stop at the Modern Museum of Art… well the shop.

On Wednesday we had breakfast at Picnic on Third (amazing house made Granola) and then went to Dolores Park. Very cool playground over there and a great neighborhood. Lots of little cafes and independent shops.

From here we went back to Market because I wanted to have a stroll through Anthropologie before we leave (a very successful one btw)…

And then we were back…
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Road trip part SEVEN – San Luis Obispo & Monterey Bay Area

big sur

We left Santa Barbara and took the train again and for the last time. The journey from SB to San Luis Obispo takes you along the ocean for most of the time – it is absolutely stunning. Plus the train has ‘sight wagons’ – where you sit like in a glass house. There was even a person that was speaking and shared lots of historical infos about the places etc…
 
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Arrived in San Luis Obispo short SLO in the afternoon we checked into our hotel, little toilet tour for everyone and off we went into town.

san luis obispo san luis obispo san luis obispo san luis obispo

The same evening, lucky us, was the day of the weekly farmers market / food festival. Diner was sorted and we tried a Tri Tip Sandwich.

We stayed for 2 nights. The next day we had breakfast at Scout, stopped at the Bubble Gum alley, had a good break at a brilliant playground, afternoon tea at Cafe Kreuzberg, found some books and a rare LP at Barnes & Nobles …

And then we tried a new method of transportation. We picked up a car or better mini van in our case! Next stop was Pacific Grove in the Monterey Bay area buuuut before we hit the road we had to stop at the Madonna Inn just outside SLO!

madonna inn madonna inn

And what a fun place. Several people recommended a stop here… all for a different reason: cake, toilets, shop, glasses… put it all together, add a whole lotta kitsch and colour and you got it!

 

pacific grove pacific grove

Arrived in Pacific Grove we learned that it was the biggest night of the village – it was Lantern Festival showdown with party and fireworks by the beach!

Lovely start to  our 3 days stay.

17 mile drive 17 mile drive 17 mile drive 17 mile drive

Day one: We went to Carmel by the sea. A very cute little town with lots of galleries and a great beach. From there we entered the 17 miles drive. A scenic drive along the Monterey Bay Area and 17 stops – cliffs, beaches, sea lions, views etc… fabulous!

big sur big sur big sur big sur big sur

Day two: BIG SUR! Most amazing place but also a sad ride at this moment. Big wildfire going on and we were not even sure if we could (wanted) to go. We did and had an extraordinary day. A day were we realised just how man things we saw and did during the trip… Our big stop was Pfeiffer Beach!

 

seelions seelions seelions

Then it was time to change locations again.  Quite a few stops for the last weeks. This time we changed into a ranch in the mountains. Totally different, super quiet and special.

But before we stopped at Elkhorn Slough/Moss Landing State Wildlife Area to watch some seals and sea lions.

corralitos ranch corralitos ranch corralitos ranch

And then we arrived in another form of paradise! In the woods. Just us…

(Still in the Monterey Bay area and the coast was a 15 min drive away)

hidden beach hidden beach hidden beach

Hidden Beach & Playground – a germ, and just as the name says… hidden… only 8 parking slots… beautiful beach.

We then took off to Santa Cruz. Our last week… soon more here!

And of course on Instagram.
 

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Bar Harbor/Acadia National Park Weekend Getaway

Bar Harbor

We recently spent the weekend up north in the beautiful Bar Harbor/Acadia National Park area and it was just the refresher we needed. Maine was the ideal place to take the kids on short hikes and enjoy the scenery with no agenda or pressure to be anywhere else.
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Bar Harbor Bar Harbor Bar Harbor
Day 1: We went to the Jordan Pond area, ate a delicious brunch at the Jordan Pond House restaurant, and then went on a mini hike – as much as the girls could handle at least. There were some serious hikers and bikers but we enjoyed a more leisurely walk as our girls pranced around, splashed the only bottle of water we had on each other, and of course had a great time! Acadia is known for being one of the most visited parks in all of the U.S. and now I can see why!

Bar Harbor Bar Harbor Bar Harbor
Day 2: We drove on the Park Loop Road, located next to Ocean Path. We parked our car, walked around to explore the area, and climbed the rocks to get as close to the cliff as possible. The ‘hike’ wasn’t as easy as Jordan Ponds’. We kept having to hold our girls’ hands to help show them how to maneuver around the tricky terrain. We were able to sit by the water for quite sometime, soaking in the sea breeze and watching the seagulls. The views were spectacular, soul soothing even.

We couldn’t have asked for more perfect weather for our mini getaway. Low 70s both days with a light breeze –  what a treat! It was so relaxing to be surrounded by nature and away from the hustle and bustle of the city for awhile. Another summer memory I was happy to share with my family – this time in the one and only Vacationland.”

 

Thank you Surabhi for this post and the inspiration – I think we all want to go there now!

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Road Trip part six – Santa Barbara

santa barbara

After we did a looooot of city sightseeing at the beginning of the trip we are now in real ‘easy peasy lemon squeezy’ mode… sun, beach, strolling around, little stop here and there, playing and and and….
Encinitas was great for that and so was Santa Barbara!

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We took the train again – directly from Encinitas to Santa Barbara, checked into our house (very close to downtown), went out for a drink and then the supermarket. Diner in the little garden and everyone happy.

The next day, Friday, was a very hot day and we decided to try out the public pool. Just right next to the beach. There are cute little shuttles bringing you from the main street down to the waterfront. Very convenient and fun for the kids too. After a slow morning we took one of those, walked along the beach and went for a nice swim in the pool. Then slowly walked back to the house – little ice cream stop on the way.

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

On Saturday we went to a playground called Kids World. Huge spot with a great play structure that looks like a castle. There was a clown showing some tricks and the whole place was surrounded by pink and blue balloons…. baby showers all the way…. after that we stopped at Crushcakes for a little afternoon treat.

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

On Sunday the temperatures went down a little and we decided to try out the beach. You will laugh but for me the idea of sitting at the beach, grilling in the heat… no thank you and especially not with a baby.

We had lunch at Lucky Penny which was fab – super yummy and interesting pizza as well as salads and home made popsicles! We went to East Beach. And realised – Encinitas had spoiled us. Soooo much. It was ok, the water was OK… but it was ‘not the same’…

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

Monday was late breakfast, hanging out in the garden, little lunch and checking out Santa Barbara Downtown aka State Street. Little stop at the beach. Nothing more, nothing less….

Santa Barbara Santa Barbara

Best ice cream in Santa Barbara: RORI. That is where we went on Tuesday (again), then up to Kids World with a stop at Diani (including shopping for me and the baby)…

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

On Wednesday we took the shuttle to the beach, checked out Stearns Wharf, walked over to the harbor which was really cool and had lunch at On The Alley (Tacos!) and went to the beach – Lead Better Beach this time. More remote, more inviting… fun place!

Santa Barbara Santa Barbara

 

We did a lot of BBQ’s in the garden and in the evenings we enjoyed some US Netflix. Like I said… easy peasy…

 

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